Sunday, August 14, 2016

A Strange Form of Cuban Art


During our second excursion in and around Havana we visited a strange area very near the marina. 

Imagine two Spanish artists, Picasso and Gaudi, collaborating on a massive project that covers several city blocks.  This is exactly what comes to mind when walking through an area unofficially called Fusterlandia which is populated by low-income families living in run-down dwellings.  

Cuban artist Jose Fuster has turned his entire neighborhood into a Barcelona-worthy creation which is an extraordinary master piece of tiles and turrets. The result is an on-going project begun 20 years ago that has covered several suburban blocks with whimsical public art.  The center piece is his own studio which is a sizeable residence not easily recognized as a building.  It is decorated from foundation to roof by art, sculptures and mosaic tiles of every description and color.  The overall impression defies written description.  It is a fantastical mish-mash of spiraling walkways, rippling pools and sunburst fountains that make Gaudi's Park Guell look staid.

Fusterlandia stretches way beyond Fuster's own residence. Over half the neighborhood has been given similar artistic treatment from street signs to bus stops to the local doctor's house.  Wandering the area is surreal and, as I said, it's really hard to describe.

Most of the homes are in various stages of disrepair but the gates, fences, entrances walls and some roofs have all been given the Fuster touch.  The entrance to the neighborhood is at bus stop number 226.  Along the first fence is a great mosaic paying homage to Gaudi.  The next picture is the gate to someone's driveway followed by a wall covered in mosaic and the front of the neighborhood clinic,

   
 When we finally reached the home/studio of the artist, we stood in total wonderment, "Is this really a house?"  Somewhere in here are sleeping quarters, a kitchen, family rooms and a studio.  The only thing we recognized was the swimming pool that, in keeping with the oddity of the place, had a "human" powered treadmill in it.  All really weird.     
 Fusterlandia is not the kind of thing one would expect to find on a Cuba trip which is probably why it is on the itinerary of a large number of organized tours coming for an art and cultural exchange.  It is indeed something to see.  I encourage you to expand the images to get the full effect.




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